1. Start with a clean face. You may wash your face with a gentle facial soap or foam to remove dirt which may prevent makeup to settle nicely on skin. If you are doing makeup of someone else and there is no accessibility to washing, use a facial water spray, like Evian facial spray, and wipe off with a facial cotton or beauty towel.
2. Tone. Facial toners help remove surface skin cells, oil and soap residue. This is important to make sure that the skin is free of residues that normal washing cannot remove.
3. Moisturize. A well moisturized skin will give a healthy glow even when there is makeup. For dry skin, this will prevent makeup from cracking. I have very dry skin so I apply a regular moisturizer and Paul & Joe Moisturizing Foundation Primer to my face. For oily skin, this may be omitted, instead you can use a matte primer to prevent makeup from caking. I recommend using the MAKEUPFOREVER All Matte Primer. If you are not sure what skin type you are applying make up on, use the matte primer.
Face Makeup - a clean, even skin is very important to create a flawless look. The first thing you need to do is identify problem areas of the face. Check where skin tone is uneven and identify dark areas and red spots.
1. Know the right shade for your skin. There are 2 types of skin tone, cool and warm. Asians are usually warm tone and Caucasians are cool tone. There are many ways to know what your tone is.
Vein Test - Check the color by looking through the veins of your wrist. If it is green in color, then you are a warm tone and if it is bluish, then you are a cool tone.
Gold/Silver Test - You can use a gold or silver fabric by holding it under your chin and see if you look better with gold or silver. If your face lights up under gold fabric, then you are a warm tone. If you look better with silver, then you are a cool tone.
Warm tone foundations are yellowish and cool tone foundations are reddish. Once you are able to identify your skin tone, you can then choose the shade that matches the skin color. By applying a thin amount of foundation on your chin will help you determine the right shade to use. You may need to mix foundations to get the exact match. Also choose the same shade and a lighter one for your concealer.
2. Even out discolorations. Use a corrective concealer to cover discolorations on the skin. You may refer to my previous entry for more details on using corrective concealers. Concentrate on the undereyes and areas around your nose. Using a slightly lighter shade apply concealer under your eyes and the V area under your eyes to the center of your face. This will give you a fresh look. Also apply area above your lips and under your eyebrows.
3. Apply foundation using light layers. I used MAC Studio Fix and the product is a bit thick so I applied very thin layers. I wanted to achieve just the right amount of coverage without looking like I have too much makeup on so I used my stippling brush to lightly apply the foundation and layer thin amount of the product until I get the desired coverage. By doing this, you are evening out your skin without applying too much. Make sure you apply very thin layers. What I did is pump a small amount of foundation on a mixing palette. I dip my brush into the product and pat it on the palette until I only have small amount of product left on the brush. I stipple the brush starting over my eyes moving outward and down. Then stipple layers over the cheeks to the nose. Start with the center of your face outwards. You would normally want to fade the foundation out to your jawline and hairline. Less layers should be applied to these areas to make it look more natural. Be very patient stippling foundation and blend it well. A clean well blended makeup base is the key to a flawless look. Set the foundation with a loose powder.
4. Contour the face. Sometimes foundation makes the face look flat and the natural shadows disappear specially when taking pictures. Contouring the face will help accentuate these areas and make it less flat. Using a darker shade matte powder, apply to the area below the apple of the cheeks, on the sides of the bridge of the nose, area near the hairline and jaws. This will give the face dimension.
5. Highlight the face. Highlighting will help give your skin natural glow and shine. Using a shimmer powder or creame, apply this to the high areas of the face - bridge of the nose, cheekbones and brow bones. Apply a bit of high light on the area over the cupid's bow to give emphasis on the lips.
6. Add blush. Apply a little tint of color to your face by patting on peach or light pink blush to the apple of your cheeks. Blend it out letting the color lightly fade towards the hairline. Do not put too much color since we are aiming for a natural flawless look. A subtle hint of color is enough.
Eyebrows - defined brows make a huge difference on how you look so it is very important to perfect your skill with shaping eyebrows. Use very light and small strokes when filling in your brows and follow the natural shape to make it look natural. Lighter color should be used so it makes your face look really soft.
Eye Makeup - eye makeup is important to help awaken the eyes. The eyes are very important since it reflects alot of emotion. If the eyes look tired, no matter how flawless the skin looks, then the overall appearance would not be great. Choosing the right color is important as well as knowing how to apply the color correctly depending on the type of eyes that you have. I have previously posted tips on how to apply makeup for monolids.
1. Apply eye primer to make colors look more vibrant and to prevent creasing.
2. Using a blending brush, apply a light yellow eyeshadow starting from the inner corner going up to the center. Blend out the color until it fades toward the outer corner of the eyes.
3. Using the same blending brush, apply pink shadow starting from the outer corner of the eyes going up towards the crease area. Extend the color towards the center gradually letting it fade to the yellow shadow applied to inner corner of the eyes.
4. Apply a lilac eyeshadow the same as you did with the pink shadow but concentrating more on the outer corner.
5. Apply a light brown color and sweep it over the crease to soften the color.
6. Apply black liner, to upper lash line and apply white liner to lower lash line. Soften the white liner by smudging it with a q-tip.
7. Curl eyelashes and apply mascara.
Lipstick - Choose a lipstick that is close to your lip color. Too light lips for your skin color makes you look sick and too dark makes the look very strong. If you are aiming for a natural soft look, then choose a color that will compliment your skin tone that is not too light or too dark. Put gloss in the center of your lips as highlight to finish the look.